I used some yarn I had lying about, or wool as we call it over here - and wool it is - some lovely grey Jacob from a local farm, a cone of dark brown Jacob I picked up in a charity shop, and some ancient Tivoli Bainin – yes, as I look into it, its about 23 years old. Talk about hanging on to things in case they become useful some day. (Mind you, it only spent the last 3 years of its life with me – the rest was in the company of another industrious knitter.) Anyway, enough about hoarding, on with the pattern.
Obviously, these yarns could be replaced by something similar - wool would be my first choice - nice and hardwearing, and they can be scratchy, as the socks are big and baggy enough to be worn over other socks. They are made from the top down. Inspiriation for the colourwork came from the geometric designs on Andean Chullo hats.
Anyway, here is the pattern...
You could also download a PDF of it from here:
I’ve given instructions for three colours. These ones blend particularly well into the patchy stone walls around these parts.
A = Grey, B = Brown, C = White
4”/10cm = 20sts or 22 rows using 5mm needles (U.S size 9, U.K size 5)
The socks fit very loosely on a size 5 or 6 foot (U.K sizing). They are roughly 10-10.5”/27cm around and 9”/23cm from heel to toe. They are easily adjusted to make longer socks. If you are working these socks in a different gauge, the amount of stitches on your needles must be divisible by eight to accommodate the pattern.
CO – Cast on
st/t – stitch/stitches
k – knit
kfb – knit into the front and back of the next st, creating two sts
rnd/s – round/rounds
PM – place marker
Beg – beginning/begin
*rep – repeat the instructions in the brackets
sl1 – slip one st
p – purl
p2tog – purl two sts together
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
dpn – double pointed needle
ndl – needle
k1A/k1B – knit 1 using A/knit 1 using B
k2togA – knit 2 together using A
ssk – slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
Using A and 4 dpns of suitable size, CO 36 sts.
PM at beg of rnd.
Work in (k1,p1) rib for 1”/2.5cm.
Change to B.
K one rnd.
(kfb, k2)*rep for one rnd (48 sts)
Rearrange sts so that you have 24 sts on one needle for the heel flap, and 12 and 12 on two other needles (front of foot). The 24 sts for the heel flap should start from 12 sts before the marker to 12 sts after it. Remove marker.
Join A and work back and forth across these 24 sts as follows:
Row 1: (Sl1, k1)*rep to end
Row 2: sl1, p to end
Repeat these two rows until heel flap is 1.5”/4cm long.
RS: sl1, k13, k2tog, k1, turn work.
WS: sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn work.
RS: sl1, k across to 1st st before gap, k2tog, k1, turn.
WS: sl1, p across to 1st st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Picking up gusset sts:
Rejoin B and work across front of foot sts, then pick up 6 sts along the right side of the heel flap, k across heel flap, then pick up 6 sts on left side of heel flap. Rearrange sts so front sts are all on one ndl, and 6 gusset sts and half of heel flap sts are each on one ndl. Ndl 1 is front foot, ndl 2 is right side gusset and heel, ndl 3 is left side gusset and heel. (52 sts)
Using B and A, work front of foot in chart and gusset/sole in vertical stripes as follows:
Rnd 1: Ndl 1- chart; ndl 2 – k1B, k2togA, (k1B, k1A)*rep 5 times, k1B; ndl 3- k1B, (k1A, k1B)*rep 5 times, sl1, k1A, psso, k1B. (50 sts)
Rnd 2: Ndl 1 – chart; ndl 2 and 3 – continue with vertical stripes – (knit B with B and A with A etc.)
Rnd 3: Ndl 1 – chart; ndl 2 – k1B, k2togB, continue in pattern; ndl 3 – work in pattern to 3 sts before the end, sl1, k1B, psso, K1B. (48sts)
Continue working in chart on foot sts, and vertical stripes on sole sts until the end of the chart. If you like, rearrange sts evenly on ndls. PM at beg of rnd.
Change to B, k 2 rnds.
Using A and C, start on next chart, repeating around all of the sts – on all 48 sts.
Change to B and k 2 rnds.
Using A, k1 rnd, PM after 24 sts (halfway around.)
Begin toe decrease rounds as follows:
(k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1)*rep
Repeat this round until 20 sts are left and bind off using Kitchener stitch.